Wednesday, July 17, 2013

With a ridiculous amount of stubbed toes

Wowwowywowwow, pole for not updating this for years!
     I suppose it has been a couple of weeks since my last post. How do I condense it all?
Work has been very relaxed the past couple of weeks as I have continued to observe, partake in events, and figure out my work plan for my remaining time in Kakamega. I started attending HIV/AIDS support group meetings. The first time I went, I expected it to be something like a scene from Rent; however, it was probably the most opposite of Rent that I could imagine. The members laughed and attended to business and I didn't actually hear one therapeutic analysis. The group I have been shadowing is incredibly established, though, and is in the process of setting up their new office. Tomorrow I will be attending an all woman's group that is less official, so maybe it will present something new. I have decided to turn my attention to the unfulfilled medical referrals for the learners of one community school in particular. It will be a difficult task to tackle, especially in just 3 ½ remaining weeks at this organization; however, I am looking forward to the challenge, especially since it seems like I will maintain my normal work schedule on top of managing this project.
     I have gotten better at accepting all the unneeded attention. Walking down the street, I hear so many Hello, *mzungu, how are you?s in the most over-exaggerated voices. For the majority of the time, I accept that I am the local mzungu and respond with a smile and a “Hello! I'm fine, thank you. No, thank you, I am going by foot today.” however, there is one instance where the attention is a bit too much. Sherry (fake name for my supervisor) and I wanted to get some mangoes for lunch a couple weeks back, so I suggested that we go to my friend's stand, my savior from the rain. Surprise, surprise, Sherry knows the man's mother, who was also at the stand. I had met the mother earlier that morning, so she was even more excited to see me back the second time and with Sherry. Now, though, whenever I return to the stand and the mother is there, there is SO much pressure! Sherry said that the mother is very proud that her son has a mzungu friend. What?? I didn't even do anything! So now that the mom has that pride, the man has become shy and embarrassed, and I become just weird (and not in a good way) because I do not react well to so much pressure. Oy.
     Fun little diddy: my host niece was using me as a doll again the other day and turned me into her own personal piki piki! She just climbed onto my lap, took my knees, and starting making whizzing noises and honking. Too cute. 
     Mmm, I have also listened to my coworkers' opinions and personal stories on many different controversial issues such as homosexuality (which is greatly looked down upon in Kenya...like, deathly looked down upon), the not uncommon practice of polygamy, and politics. As difficult as it has been biting my tongue, it has been very interesting hearing what they have to say. I realized that I've sort of isolated myself from other opinions...I find that I surround myself with people who think similarly; so much, in fact, that I forgot that people with other ideas exist! I think that I have a better understanding of the way they approach certain issues; however, their viewpoints have made me more concrete in my opinions, in a way. So that's good, I think...
     Oh! I almost forgot!
My Kenyan 4th of July
     After a monotonous day of organizing the medicine cabinets at work and social security fund projects and rushing home on a pikipiki, I met up with ten FSD pals for dinner at a fantastic place called Forest Green. On the outside it just seems like a run-down hotel. However, it was actually surprisingly cozy and urban on the inside.
     That night, the restaurant could hardly fit eleven people all at one common area, especially since it was sufficiently crowded. So a couple of fantastic locals shared their table and laughter with us. They talked about their lives and I split an order of vegetable curry with chapati and chips masala (a fancy way of eating french fries). We then proceeded to storm Club Ripple in downtown Kakamega.
Holy moley. This club. What words can describe this club? To begin, it was bumpin 90s R&B while playing some weird desert storm movie on the televisions that speckled the bar. Occasionally the Djs would play a little Beyonce or Britney or Black Eyed Peas AKA the greatest combo pack. If love at peace are so strong...my favorite was when they played “Carry Out,” a song that epitomized my drives from school to swim practice senior year of high school. I basically spent the night laughing and seat-dancing (there were only three men dancing and it was apparently just not the dancing sort of night for the locals). Oh, I also saw a rat running up the speaker...Hilary (a fellow intern) and I shared a look of disgusted and frightened amazement, followed by disbelieving laughter. Awww, domestic party rats.

     And then also...
My Most Proud Moment: Seconds on Guacamole
     It has been suggested that we make dinner for our families at least once during our home stays. The easiest—and my favorite—recipe within my skills set is, of course, guacamole. I reserved a night to make dinner and bought all the ingredients, which may or may not have included an incredibly rainy trip to the market. I wanted to serve it with beans and chapati; however, chapati takes a very inconvenient amount of time, so I opted for rice. I intended to make it all myself, but when I got home, my host cousin Michelle was making the beans and rice already. Fun fact: this was her first time making rice. And beans, now that I think of it. So I just went on my way, chopping and preparing the guac. The tomatoes, onions, and garlic I chopped for the green dish ended up in the beans without my knowing...oy! So I rechopped new vegetables and such (and cilantro! Yummm) and we enjoyed a garlicy-tomatoey-oniony goodness. I was unsure of whether or not my family actually enjoyed it...they kept saying things like “Mmm, it's sweet!” (because everything good is sweet) but I was still skeptical because I have heard that guac is either hit or miss with host families.
     To my great delight, Momma Mary asked me to make the same dish when I returned from work the next day. SUCCESS! This time we ate it with gderi (beans and maize) and bananas. Ooooooweeee it was so good. One of my favorites, for sure. Ah. Now I want it tonight...dangit.
The guacamole experience is just one instance that has helped me get even closer with my family. It goes without saying that things with them keep getting better and better.

Mid-Term Retreat, Naivasha Edition: Land of Casual Zebras
     Last Thursday morning, I headed out of Kakamega and off to Naivasha with the rest of the interns and the site team (minus Peter) in two spacious vans. Naivasha is about two hours northwest of Nairobi. It is home to three beautiful lakes, a volcanic mountainish place to hike, and Hell's Gate. Apparently, there used to be many Maasai living in the area until a huge storm came and flooded the place. A great amount of Maasai died from this flood; hence, Hell's Gate. This is also the place where Lion King was based off of. We drove for four hours without any problem besides the overly-bumpy-underdeveloped road; we were all sleepy and in need of a bathroom, so we stopped for lunch. After eating, we were on the road again. We were chugging along, chugging along, until surprise surprise, one of our vans got a flat tire. One second we were whizzing down the highway; the next, we were whizzy backwards in the shoulder, going the opposite direction of traffic to accompany the flat-tired van. Our drivers changed the tire within twenty minutes and we were again on our way to Naivasha.
     Overall it took about six hours to get to Naivasha. After lunch we had to drive through the town, past a copious amount of resorts, and numerous greenhouses just to get pulled over by the Tourist Police. They told us to accompany them to their station and we did not ask any questions. After questioning the site team about our visas, the reason for us being there, and a phone call to Peter, we all left the station confused. The drivers were to return to the station after dropping us off at the campsite. Apparently, it turned out to all be okay, though. Oy, the life of traveling amongst so many mzungus...
     We stayed at Fisherman's Camp, right at the waterside of Lake Naivasha. There is a hotel with a restaurant and bar occupying the bottom level, and a large amount of land for camping. We camped, of course. There were tents everywhere, lots of benches, and incredible sights. The place is notorious for hippos visiting its beaches at night—it's chill, though, because the campsite is surrounded by an electric fence to keep them out. There were also so many beautiful trees, some of which have toppled over into the lake in a disastrously gorgeous way. On top of that, there were huge swan-like birds loitering around the dock and funny greenery living in the lake with puffball tops. The food was delicious (we had our first pizzas in over a month!) and there were more mzungus than I had seen since Zurich combined.
     The FSD Kakamega crew went to Crater Lake for a day; we thought it would be a day of hiking around a lake, but it ended up practically being a walking safari. As soon as we left our vans, a giraffe welcomed us to the park with the most graceful, awkward, slow-motion gallop. It was absolutely fantastic and a bit surreal. For the most part, we spent the morning stalking three giraffes and followed them to a field with numerous giraffes and zebras. In addition to these great animals, we spotted warthogs, impalas, and backed away slowly from a bull. A bull? A bison? Ehh, I honestly can't remember. It was some large, gruesome beast.
     We enjoyed sack lunches (courtesy of Fisherman's) under a dramatic tree of either veggie burgers (bean and onion patties) or chicken burgers with chips and chips and chips**.
     After that, we hiked up a hill and down and hill, through the gorgeous forest to a resort on Crater Lake. It was possibly the most beautiful resort/setting I have ever seen! There was a buffet/seating area literally on top of the lake. It was kind of like the Lake House...
     That night, two other interns and I saw three hippos out of water. WHAT. So cool! There were two adults and a little one. We tried to protect its privacy and keep the baby a secret, but people noticed it. Oops. Then one of the hippos starting yelling at the other one, scaring it back into the water. While all this was going on, there was a cat lurkin real close to the hippos. Ah! It was so closer to them, accepting its own fate. Thankfully, there were no cat murders and the feline made it out alive.
     The next day I went kayaking with two other interns. One of them almost hit me out of my kayak, so that was good. But it was really nice being out on the water, just the three of us. It was quite secluded...also, summer isn't right if it isn't at least partially on the water! The rest of the weekend, we relaxed, walked, chatted with a few cool people, and played kickball.
     One night I chatted a lot with the resident man in charge of tours and such named Offin. Turns out, he is from Kakamega! On top of this job, he has set up schools targeting Maasai children, IGAs for HIV/AIDS support groups having to do with flowers and greenhouses, and education on female circumcision. He also has a super cool purple hat that says “SWAGG.” Therefore, he is great.
     To sum it all up, the weekend was fantastic. So much wildlife, so much beauty, so many great people, so much terrible music.

     One last thought...
The Realization That The Others Are Returning to Duke, Not Portland
     It is beginning to get a bit odd listening to people talk about hanging out once they get back to school since I won't be joining them. Yes, we are just over half way and still have three weeks left with them, but still. I've told them that if they can get me a killer scholarship I would transfer in a heartbeat. However, I do not think that is going to happen. Which is fine, because I like Portland anyway. I do wish that I could bring them all with me, though.

*General term for foreigner. It's not derogatory, but people often call me mzungu to get my attention. This used to bug me a bit. I used to think “Come on, guys, I have a name!” Now, though, it is not bad. I like to think I've done an adequate job of embracing the mzunguness.

**Keep in mind that chips are actually french fries. Colonialism, doe. 

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